Not Willing To Take The Current Market Position, International Brand Vice Line Busy Innovation

"No more now.

This independent brand has merged with Z Zegna to become a new Z Zegna. Besides, we are not Zegna's secondary line (inferior to famous brand, better brand than general brand), but a completely independent brand, which is the same.

Recently, if you visit shops in Z Zegna, as long as there is a little doubt about the "auxiliary line" in the language, salespeople will emphasize this with you.

In fact, the brand new Z Zegna announced a new identity in Italy last year, and took the spring and summer of 2015 as a new starting point.

"In fact, Z Zegna is not the secondary line of Zegna from its initial stage."

Zegna responsible person said so.

Of course, it is not surprising to hear such a voice, because Miu Miu has already expressed similar wishes, indicating that Prada is already the two independent body rather than who adheres to it.

A subtle change in the circle: the side line that used to be delicious seems to have become a noun that everyone is eager to get rid of now.

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The sub lines are busy merging or independent.

The fashion circle has no short history to play with the secondary line, and the first person to taste is Armani.

In 1981, Giorgio Armani created a sub line brand.

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After that, most fashion brands began to launch corresponding sub lines.

For example, in 1988, Donna Karan launched DKNY, and Prada launched Miu Miu in the 90s of last century. They usually use the reputation of the main line to design consumers who are unable to buy the mainline for young people.

The original idea is profitable, and the response from the market has always been good. Even once, there has been a "main line of image, a profit from the secondary line".

But now, this situation has changed quietly.

We must remember that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana stopped operating D&G in 2011 and classified D&G into Dolce&Gabbana.

At that time, the news shocked the fashion industry and led to the last wave of panic buying by a group of D&G.

At that time, the brand's annual income was about 400 million euros, which was pretty good. The move has always been speculation, but now it looks clear.

Another way of sub line is to go it alone, like Prada's repositioning of Miu Miu, or to the main line, to reduce branches.

Because over the years, some of the sub line owners have influenced the image of the main line. Some brands are too confused.

The smaller the brand, the harder it will be to maintain the cost of business.

So LV would rather sell cheap key chains and extend the product line rather than play a small LV.

"We know that besides Giorgio Armani, there are Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans, Armani collezioni, etc.

In fact, the latter 3 brands are basically handed over to distributors.

An industry insider who worked in Armani told reporters, "we have also discussed whether Armani's secondary line is too large, and it will confuse people.

So now concentrating on the main line and advanced customization, only Emporio Armani is fully managed by the brand.

Consumers are becoming smart.

Where are the pressures of the sub lines? Exane BNP Paribas luxury research fellow Luca Solca believes that in addition to light luxury, designer brands like 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang, as well as designer and large retailers' brands, have brought impact to the big secondary line.

Bernstein

Mario Ortelli, senior vice president, said, "these latecomers are more productive and more competitive."

And competitors have a fast product cycle and a strong fashion.

At present, only a few of the Marc by Marc Jacobs and Emporio Armani have strong competitiveness.

Of course, more importantly, the growth of consumers has changed their understanding of the secondary line itself.

"I was fascinated by these sub lines a few years ago. When I went to Hongkong, I bought a lot of DKNY and Marc by Marc Jacobs. After all, the mainline was too expensive, and the secondary line could satisfy some psychology.

But now, I love designer brand. "

Rebecca, who works in the IT industry, said, "and many of the sub lines are too dependent on the main line of logo, giving people the impression that they are not independent, nor are they unique enough, and their performance price ratio is not high."

This can also explain why those who wish to live on the side line are eager to be independent gateways with the main line level.

"The secondary line has to rely on the main line when it first came into being, because it can make the unknown quickly succeed, and when it comes to stability, it naturally wants to become an independent body, otherwise it will always be an accessory."

One industry insider said.

The line that used to be fragrant and pastry seems to be a noun that everyone is eager to get rid of now.